The side panel provides links to a
number of hints and tips which it is hoped will assist
in getting the best out of the clubs waters.
If anybody has ideas that they are willing to pass
on to other anglers, I would be more than happy to
post them onto the site.
These need not necessarily be tackle or rig tips.
Bait tips, hints on location etc. and anything else
that might help put fish on the bank would be useful.
You may email me at tel4pac@parks-ac.org.uk
with your tips. Any images attached should be in JPG format.
The most common knot for attaching a hook involving a hair, is without doubt, the 'knotless knot'.
However, there are occasions when a hair is not required or when the bunch of the knot along the
shank of the hook would be a disadvantage, and at the other end of the hooklink, a different type
of knot is required for attaching the swivel.
Seasoned anglers will be familiar with these two knots and will already have them amongst their
repertoire, but those new to the sport may find this of use.
The 'grinner knot' is probably, by a small percentage, the more efficient of the two and the diagram
is self explanatory in the tying of it. Taking the line twice through the eye (either of the hook or the
swivel), reduces the possibility of line slip causing strangulation of the mainline where it passes
through the turns of the knot.
The 'palomar' is almost as efficient and is the preferred knot for tying swivels since it offers less
knot bunch and allows a bead to be more easily pressed over itself for knot protection. It may, however,
require a little explanation.
After passing a loop of the line through the eye, an overhand knot is formed, and the end of the loop
passed back over the hook or swivel before lubricating and gently pulling tight.
The club has a rule that surface fishing is not allowed. Those of us that regularly
fish at Shoebury have found that this modification of the 'Beachcaster rig' allows us
to tackle the surface cruising carp that often can be seen following
the edges of the lilypads at the shallow end, and still stay within the rules.
The set-up is effectively a paternoster rig utilising a three way swivel. The hook-link
should be about 8-9" long. The short length of tubing pushed onto the middle eye of the
swivel creates a stand-off arm to prevent tangles. The lower eye of the swivel has about 3 or 4 feet of
2 lb. breaking strain mono attached to which is tied a disposable anchor weight.
I use a pine cone - there's always plenty laying about.
In use the anchor is cast well onto the pads, and then gently pulled back until the bait just
drops off the edge and into the water. The rod is set into the rest with the tip held high and
the line gently tightened until the bait is supported just under the surface of the water.
If the bait being used allows the hook point to be exposed, it may be wise to use pva melting
foam to mask it and thus prevent it catching up on the lily leaves.
Make sure the rod is well supported. With no line laying on the water, takes, when they come are
hard and confident and a badly supported rod could be pulled in.
Plenty has been written concerning blow-back rigs. I have had
some success with this version at Shoebury. The basic difference
is that the tail to the rig ring around the hook is taken down
the inside of the shank rather than the outside.
I think this gives a better hook turn in the mouth and
a better chance of a clean hookhold. I certainly have not
yet had an abortive pick-up with this method.
There are not as many crucians in Shoebury now as in the past. There are enough, however,
to make it worth while targeting them as a species. The set-up shown will ensure a good
registration of takes from this shy fish.
The essential balance is achieved by selecting the bottom tell-tale shot so that in
conjunction with the bait it is enough to sink the float, while the rest of the shot
would balance it with about an inch showing.
It is fished with the bottom shot about 8 - 9" over depth and
after casting out, the line is tightened until the tip of the float pulls down and shows
about ¼" above the water. Any disturbance of that balance by an inquisitive fish
registers with a lifting of the float whilst a confident take pulls it straight under.
Fish location is important. Most are taken in marginal areas with nearby reed cover. Bread would
be the first choice bait, but flavoured paste, sweetcorn and worm pieces are also worth a go.
Favoured loose feed would be liquified bread, which should be introduced little and often, but
any other other type of cloud groundbait could be utilized.
This rig turns down into the carps mouth very quickly.Try it if you're suffering hookpulls.
With the bait positioned right on the bend it makes the hook point heavy so that it's driven home.
The closer to the front bend of the hook that the swivel is allowed to move, the quicker
the hook will turn in the carp's mouth.
The hook should be straight pointed with an inturned eye. Swivel should be just large enough to
slide onto the hook without being a tight fit, and the bead a snug fit so that it does not move
under pressure.
This rig works equally well with braid or stiff rig materials. If you find that carp are being deep
hooked, the hook length is too long and should be shortened until hook holds are in the bottom
lip every time.
Not recommended for pop-ups.
Have you ever given any consideration as to why bread continues to float even in a most
waterlogged state? If you have, you would have come to the obvious conclusion that it was
because of the large amount of air trapped within.
It is possible to obtain this effect when making boilies by adding the same ingredient
that creates it in bread - 'Bakers Yeast'. This can be purchased from any supermarket, and
is normally sold in little sachets containing enough for one loaf. You won't need as much
as this since a one egg mix will produce enough bait for a good number of visits to your
chosen venue.
Start by cracking the egg into a basin and add your usual flavourings and liquid additives.
Remember it is only one egg so scale the amounts down accordingly. You could put in a little
extra but don't overdo it. When all is mixed, add about a third of a sachet of the yeast and
stir in well, then stir in your boilie mix until it is of the correct consistency for rolling.
Place a wet cloth over the mix so that it doesn't dry out and put it aside for about an hour
while the yeast does it's magic. After that it's roll and boil as usual. Make the baits a couple
of sizes smaller than you finally want since they swell in the same way as bread in cooking.
Allow to dry before use, or freezing.
There you have it. They will stay popped up for as long as you are likely to require, but there
is one disadvantage for those who like glugging their baits - they can't be stored for extended
periods in glugging jars. They go very soft and soggy, becoming virtually unuseable as bait.
